Quality and conformity are the primary objectives for Cotonificio Albini. The laboratories, accredited by Marks & Spencer for twelve years, conduct in-depth analyses of all the processing stages, in suitable environments, with ad hoc calibrated machines compliant with the requirements of the different national standards (like EN for Europe or ASTM for the United States). Everything is all co-ordinated by skilled technicians who are very attentive to even the smallest detail.
A constant interchange of information between the technical specialists and designers evaluating the different fabric specifications, enables the best charactiristics of Cotonificio Albini fabrics to be achieved, guaranteeing greater attention to the demands of the customer and maximising product performance.
YARN CONTROLS
The quality of the finished product is the result of a detailed plan where the choice of raw materials and suppliers plays a fundamental role. This is why acceptance checks on incoming yarns are a necessary tool to guarantee conformity and repetitivity of the quality of the fabrics.
The checks are made on some sample packages taken from the batch in a laboratory that uses the most sophisticated instruments and working in a standard environment (conditioned at a temperature of 20°C and with a 65% humidity). In the Cotonificio Albini yarn laboratory there are six technicians working, carrying out thousands of tests on all the incoming batches before they go into production. A grey yarn is processed only if it passes all the tests it is subject to: checking humidity, count, twist, resistance, stretching and regularity.All essential characteristics to produce a top quality fabric.
COLOURED YARN
By dyeing the yarn colours are obtained that have made the Albini collection famous and appreciated worldwide.
This process could, however, modify a few fundamental characteristics of the yarn. This is why, after dyeing, another series of tests are conducted in the lab, i.e. checking the tone, uniformity and fastness of the colour (packages that are uniform inside and outside with the colour firmly fixed), smoothness and, once again, the strength of the yarn.
Also in this case, thanks to the use of electronic instruments and the expertise of the technicians, we can guarantee that the yarn stays within a tolerance range.
The most important piece of equipment to conduct the tests is the spectrophotometer which is able to recognise and identify the exact correspondence of a yarn to a sample deposited and approved by the product office.
GREY FABRIC CHECK
This is a meticulous check, made on each single metre of fabric produced.
It is done by an inspector on a special slanted, illuminated table (sight glass) with the purpose of eliminating or indicating on the production information management system, any flaws produced in the previous processing phases.
There is an initial classification (1st-2nd-3rd choice) based on the score given by the inspector on each flaw found, as there could be a broken thread or a tangled weft. Many flaws can be cleaned and solved during finishing. This means the score attributed could be changed and improved at the next check on the finished fabric. Sometimes the inspector can even determine the final category of a product if it has a flaw that will certainly not be resolved in the finishing phase. In such a case, programming is notified immediately so the possibility of reproducing the piece straight away without flaws can be evaluated, saving precious time.
Any flaws that are found are normally related to yarn count: the higher it is the greater the risks of loom downtimes, leading to potential problems. The aim of efficient weaving is, therefore, to have the loom stop as little as possible. Even the type of fibre chosen is an important factor, likewise the weaving tests conducted previously and the preparation of size recipes suitable for the yarn.
Whenever a repetitive flaw is found, the control department sends immediate feedback to weaving that starts procedures to eliminate it from the loom. The rolls of fabric made (3-4000 metres) are sent to finishing.
FINISHED FABRIC CHECK
When the finished fabric returns from finishing, wound in 4-5,000 metre rolls, it is checked, cut and made up to the requirements of the customer it is going to.
Every metre is slowly presented for inspection on the illuminated table where the inspector searches for, identifies and records any flaws found in the production management system.
The system classifies the piece again according to the dimension and number of flaws, comparing it with the requirements of the customer it is assigned to. The piece is then cut and automatically packed with a sheet of polythene to protect it during the next handling operations. 100% of production is checked by eighteen workers.
The cloth inspectors are carefully trained and their meticulous attention, experience and professionality, combined with the cutting edge loom technology (the last substantial renewal was in 2008) guarantee the highest quality standards are maintained.
LABORATORY TESTS ON THE FINISHED FABRIC
The quality of a fabric is a series of characteristics that render it easy to make-up and, above all, to satisfy the customer who wears the garment every day. It is to verify these characteristics that the fabric undergoes a series of tests before being shipped.
The laboratory tests are conducted by Cotonificio Albini technicians in a standard environment (conditioned) with the aid of electronic instruments and according to the international standards in use in the countries where the fabric is going to be shipped.The aim of the chemical tests is to verify the characteristics of the fabric under the various conditions of use. The test first of all ascertains the fastness of the colour by rubbing the fabric when it is dry and wet and in distilled water. In addition, its fastness is tested with acid or alkaline sweat and washing with detergents or perborate. Hydrolysis of the reactive colours, oxygenation of the optical agent and the pH are all tested.
The physical tests ensure that the fabric has the characteristics of resistance that allow correct making up and use of the finished garment, such as the smoothness of the seams and resistance to tearing and abrasion. Tests are also conducted to certify ironability and dimensional stability to washing and steam.
